Always Guantee that the needle is held straight /horizontally – parallel to the stitches and perpendicular into the pleats and valleys. If you would like loosen up the gathers toward the top of smocking honeycomb stitch or even the wave stitch is utilised, due to the stretchiness of the sew. https://covered-elastic-yarn66431.ampedpages.com/smoking-thread-an-overview-59388199